Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
